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Editorial: Is New York Fashion Week Too Commercial?
New York Fashion Week Spring 2004
By: Mari Davis
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DALLAS, Jul 30, 2003/ FW/ --- If the accusation of New York being too commercial comes from
definiton #5, being of an average or inferior quality and #6, producing artistic work
of low standards for quick market success, then the accusation is unfounded and wrong!
Let us look at #6 first, "Producing artistic work of low standards for quick market success."
There is no such thing as "quick market success" in fashion.
A designer might be the 'current darling of the moment' and might get good, even great
reviews from editors, but if buyers do not order from the designer, then, the label is not a
market success at all!
Case in point, it took years for Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan to reach the
position where they are.
They did not build their business and their companies overnight.
And that is also true for other New York fashion houses like Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica by
David Chu, Baby Phat, Michael Kors, and Marc Jacobs among others.
For up and coming designers like Y&Kei, Alice Roi and Keanan Duffty, they have been
working on their crafts for a very long time. The kudos and awards they have received
did not come from "producing artistic work of low standards for quick market success."
They got their awards because of their high quality work.
And even if New York designers want to "produce artistic works of low standards for
quick market success," government regulations will not allow them.
Companies have paid hefty fines to the government for infractions when their products
do not pass quality control and still reach the general populace.
Also, there are a lot of "special interest groups," which do not receive government
funding at all, but they still look after the good of the general public.
How can anyone in their right mind want to want to make substandard products when
there are just too many watchdogs around. Between government regulations and special
interest groups on the look out, it is just easier to produce high quality products than be the
target of an investigation.
So, is New York too commercial because it "produces artistic work of low standards for
quick market success?"
The answer is a resounding NO! The business environment in the U.S. will not allow such
a thing.
And if by chance, someone was able to balk the system and the product reaches the market,
consumers will not buy it. Word of mouth gets around fast. Most people will try something
new once. But if they don't like it, they won't buy it again and tell their friends and
family not to buy that product.
Why would a designer risk his or her name and label for a quick buck? He or she will only
be good for one season and then no more.
But every season, we see the same names in New York, plus a few new ones. If designers
can continue to show his or her collection every season (fashion shows are very expensive
to produce as already mentioned), then that can only mean that they have the funds for it.
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