Viktor & Rolf Signs Global Beauty License with L’Oreal
By: Godfrey Deeny
PARIS, Apr 19, 2002/ --- Viktor & Rolf, the design duo that once created a "virtual" perfume
in a flacon with no opening, is going to get its own real scent. The Dutch designers have
signed a major international license with L'Oreal, the world's biggest beauty conglomerate.
Expect to see a lot more frocks before the fragrance though. The first Viktor & Rolf scent
won't be unveiled until early 2005.
Viktor & Rolf did the deal with Prestige et Collections International (PCI), the designer
scent division of L'Oreal which already controls the beauty businesses of Giorgio Armani,
Cacharel, Guy Laroche and Paloma Picasso.
"The contract with L'Oreal is a huge opportunity for us. The important thing is to seduce
as many people as possible whilst maintaining our difference. Unlike many of our
contemporaries, we defend a certain form of classicism," Viktor & Rolf said in a statement.
The agreement marks a radical break for PCI, which has not signed a new scent license in
over a decade and a half and has not previously worked with cutting-edge talent.
L'Oreal has ambitious plans for the design team of Victor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, who
have built a gilt-edged reputation in the past five years showing their contemporary couture
collections in Paris.
"L'Oreal shares Viktor & Rolf's desire to create beauty products which surprise the public
without alienating them, yet which can also move that public with the energy of the aura
that surrounds them. These young designers embody a couture that is modern and spectacular,
they are visionary. They inspire us to dream," said PCI president Patricia Turck Pacquelier.
Graduates of the Arnhem Academy in their native Holland, Viktor & Rolf first grabbed
attention when they won the important Festival of Hyeres Young Designer Award. Since then
they have presented 10 haute couture and five ready-to-wear collections.
Their most recent collection, a tour de force of staging using elements of theater and video
imagery, was widely considered the most beautifully staged of the collections presented in
March. Using blue scenes, the pair projected images of nature and the wild onto the models
and clothes in an, at times, ecstatic show entitled "Long Live the Immaterial."
Ironically for such classically inspired couture designers, probably their best-known
garment was a stars and stripes shirt that quickly became a collector's item.
Though L'Oreal did not release any target figures for the new scent, given the sheer
economic power of the French beauty giant, Viktor & Rolf can expect major revenues from
royalties - virtually guaranteeing the economic future of their fashion house.
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