The Vetyver fragrance isn't new to Lanvin though; the company first launched a scent of the same name in 1964 that was withdrawn from sale in 1980.

Lena Pierotti, Marketing Director of Lanvin Parfums, explained that when the company decided to relaunch Vetyver, she found the original too much of its own time, and was looking for something "elegant for today."

Working with nose Francois Robert at Synarome, she eventually found the more modern scent she had in mind. Robert describes the pure essence of vetiver root used in the original Vetyver as, "a dry, dark fragrance" that is too heavy to appeal to a wide contemporary audience.

The finished fragrance, with 90 percent natural ingredients, still has a base of vetiver, but it is combined with sandalwood, cedar and musks, a calm middle note of nutmeg, white jasmine, pimento and thyme, and a refreshing top note of bergamot, lime and juniper.

The scent is a slow starter, building steadily over time to reveal the deep and sensual base notes. "We wanted to have a fragrance you discover," Robert explained, "not one that is right there straight away."

The Vetyver bottle is tinted green, unlike Lanvin Homme's blue flacon. Based on the original design by Pascal Mourgue, the only difference apart from the color is the newcomer's metal cap, which is matte instead of shiny.

The advertising is also practically identical, featuring a bottle on a white shirt. For Lanvin Homme, the shirt was buttoned up to the collar, for Vetyver that top button is left open. While both cater to a 30 to 40-year-old age group, Pierotti says that Vetyver is more casual, before cautioning, "but not sporty." She describes it specifically as being like "a French version of dress-down Friday."

The scent launches in France in June before beginning a cautious global rollout in September. The US launch is scheduled for early 2004. Lanvin has a target of 14,000 points of sale worldwide with projected sales of three million euros at wholesale this year. The company plans for Vetyver to eventually represent 30 percent of the men's turnover for Lanvin Parfums.

Vetyver comes in three eau-de-toilette spray sizes: 65 euros for 100ml, 45 euros for 50ml, and 36 euros for 30ml. From September, an after-shave and balm, shower gel, soap, and deodorant stick and spray will be added to the range.