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Ann Demeulemeester's New Rebel
By: Marian Faddis
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Mar 12, 2002/ FWD/ --- Prepare to join the revolution.
This season Ann Demeulemeester designed for the undaunted woman who might be heading an
underground revolt.
Military cuts and tough lines are a constant for this designer.
But she's a rebel at heart, and her muse does not serve the State -- she is, indeed, a
lady who follows her own political agenda.
Color was kept minimal by Demeulemeester, and prints are not in her vocabulary.
Her big idea this season was the revamped cargo pant, which came in black, chrome and brown
in various fabrics -- heavy moleskin, flowing satin and corduroy –- and was tapered at
the ankle with straps and snaps.
The cargo look was a component of numerous ensembles.
Ann's leather pieces were rough and well worn, yet still delicate.
One particular hooded coatdress in beige leather wrapped around the body with a graceful tie.
The fur vests and collars gave the collection a savage tinge, and Ann's belts, slung low
around the hips, were dripping in straps and fringe.
With excess fabric draping, skirts were wrapped and tied and fastened, most of them hitting
at the knee.
For evening, the Revolutionary maiden left her heavy layers behind and slipped into something
light and airy, as Demeulemeester sent out a series of sleeveless hooded dresses in fine
chiffon, adorned with tassels and sparkly sequins.
As always, Ann showed men’s wear as part of the women's show.
The men, too, wore mostly black layers.
Their suits were heavy but smart, and the trench coats in leather and shearling were
particularly sharp.
Still, this was a women's movement, and Ann's beligerent ladies captured the limelight.
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