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Ann Demeulemeester: Poetically Edgy
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Jennifer Graylock-FWD
Click on image to see bigger photo.
Paris, Oct 5, 2001/ FWD/ --- After a month of post-September 11 fashion shows it was
something of a surprise to see Anne Demeulemeester's catwalk presentation Monday night,
as it had obviously not been toned down in response to the atrocities in America.
Demeulemeester presented a tough and poetically edgy collection full of great clothes,
though, at the same time, one stacked with references to military clothing.
After the Wall Street and Pentagon attacks, collections have been shorn of military looks.
It's all too easy to forget that the biggest party in the Milan men's collection last year
was for a tome-like book on the uniform in men's fashion.
This time last October in Paris, the audience bristled with camouflage looks. Helene Arnault,
whose husband Bernard is the lord of luxury as chairman of LVMH, even wore the combat colors
front row at Louis Vuitton. This huge late-'90s trend is now firmly over.
Last night, however, Demeulemeester showed satin military tunics, officers' trench looks and
soft mess jackets in a practically printless show. A group of distressed white leather jackets
and suits were defiantly rugged.
Belts came slung across the hips like holsters, though softened by bulky crystals attached
by safety pins. These looks may sound a little hard, but in Anne's subtle hands they captured
a modern spirit of tough femininity.
Demeulemeester has a near legendary reputation for cutting great pants. Deservedly so, as
this season's baggy pants with men's back pockets and flaps were excellent.
With scores of designers reining in their collections in Europe, it was striking to see a
collection that pulled no punches.
Ann Demeulemeester Fashion
Ann Demeulemeester Fashion
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