Anne Valerie Hash Haute Couture: Turning Savile Row on its Head
Paris Haute Couture Fall 2002
By Karl Treacy
Photos by FW
PARIS, Jul 12, 2002/ --- In spite of the intermittent downpours on a gray and humid
day, a huge gaggle of clients, fashion folk, and desperately eager students and hangers on
turned out to view the fall couture collection from French designer Anne Valerie Hash at
the Musee Galliera.
They weren't disappointed.
Before even examining the serene pieces, one was struck by the lineup of first-rate models
in the show.
Though a small designer, Hash managed to acquire the services of Alek Wek, Natasa Vojnovic,
Marcelle, Kasia Pysiak, Luca, Roos and Carmen Maria, among others.
Then one looked at the clothes and was struck by those, too.
Hash has continued on her mission to disassemble and put back together tailored clothing in
imaginative and poetic ways.
Sure a succession of loose, hooded dresses seemed odd and without much conviction -- Vojnovic's
fell open with every step.
But when she focused on what she does best, Hash produced some excellent looks.
Her big idea was trousers with multiple waistband action, which came either wrapped and dhoti
style, buckled, or perfectly simple and classic.
Above the waist, jackets were twisted to become one shoulder tops with a reversed collar
outlining the graceful neckline, or a delicate pleated collar above a tulle bodice, adding
a touch of gentle femininity.
Even though an off-white draped sheath, with ruffled seams as though layers were basted
together, was stunning on Alek Wek, Hash's strength lies in her understanding of tailoring
and how to subvert it.
With a few more years experience under her belt and a greater comprehension of drape and
what the French call "flou" (soft dressmaking) who knows, maybe she could give Yohji a run
for his money.
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