Antonio Berardi Fall 2004
Milan Womenswear Show Fall 2004
Antonio Berardi: Simple Yet Perfectly Divine
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Feb 25, 2004/ FW/ --- With an androgynous mixture of feminine and masculine, Antonio Berardi presented his lastest collection in Milan on what was officially the second day of shows.
The Anglo Italian creative Berardi is part of the same London export package as Galliano and McQueen proving season after season that his wings are not to be pinned down.
At times simple, but perfectly divine the styling of a show that left all spectators positive in their appraisals of the young Antonio and his energetic interpretation of what a woman of the 21st century is likely to wear next fall.
Taking classic masculine tailoring and reconstructing it for the female silhouette, jackets are shortened, vests are sexy and braces are a must.
Buttons are visible and go beyond the practical becoming intriguing detail, heels are high and buckles hold up shin covering grandpa style mini suspenders on socks that sit just above the knee.
Traditional male suit designed fabric such as plain grey, mini checks and boring reserved monotones are turned into gorgeous dresses full of volume, skirts that are ruffled and overcoats that the ultimate example of Berardi’s attention to sartorial detail.
The tuxedo and standard suit are reconstructed, zip-up tails are put onto a bright orange down jacket while vests are shortened and figure hugging, jackets are full of detail both in the front and back as they often appear to be worn backwards.
This decisive and determined woman is all the same feminine, Berardi is well aware that the aggressive beauty of his women is at the same time charming as he uses transparency and a bow motif in thin delicate lace on little strappy black dresses and tops.
Berardi’s female is sexy and steadfast, unwavering at the idea that she must adhere to ancient rules for females. The time is now.
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