PARIS, Mar 7, 2006/ FW/ --- Antonio Berardi, it appears has something of the showman about him. In his catwalk show last Sunday, the curtains opened to reveal a line of self-assured models perched on stools before a long vanity mirror. Back-stage goes centre stage and this idea of reversing norms was played out through interesting combinations of textures and materials; shinny patent leathers mixed with wool bouclé or glossy silk nylons with Chantilly lace.

What was most apparent however was the bold confidence and the undercurrent of empowerment that permeated the proceedings. When combined with the big hair, bigger earrings and accentuated shoulders, the effect was redolent of an Eighties style severity but the bright red lipstick and pencil skirts spoke more of the strict sensuality common to 1950’s stars such as Lauren Bacall.

This feeling was further enhanced by the emphasis on an hourglass form; a full-skirted strapless cable knit dress for example, nipped in by a broad patent belt to give a waspish silhouette – a color scheme, tellingly, of yellow and black. Even through the trouser suits that appropriated elements from formal menswear, the curve of the body was defined by corseting, which played on its visible construction.

This contrast of the masculine with the feminine was another theme of the collection with softer knitwear and white rose silk ruffle detailing contrasting with tailored tuxedo shirts and narrow cigarette trousers. The key to the show was certainly the posture however, with even ostensibly ladylike mini-fans brandished like weapons.

It was a confident show for confident women and Berardi evidently knows how to construct an outfit. It was sexy and relevant and even when calling upon stereotypes such as nurses’ uniforms, unlike say his compatriot Roberto Cavalli, it never strayed into the realms of trashiness.

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi