PARIS, Oct 10, 2005/ FW/ --- For his Paris debut, Antonio Berardi chose his native Italy as inspiration culling from the Renaissance period to portray romantic silhouettes that has linear graphics qualities that accentuates the female form yet they feature masculine tailoring.

Springtime usually associated with renewal and the season that is also coupled with the Renaissance period. From 1450 to 1600, the world underwent a change, as humankind learned and mastered new skills that allowed fellows such as Leonardo Da Vinci to become skilled at both scientific and artistic endeavors.

Two sides of the coin, same as Berardi’s spring / summer 2006 collection that is full of volume and fluidity contrasted with sharp, narrow and masculine tailoring.

Tiny ruffles in the placket and neck worn with lacy skirts sheered just below the waist of an obi-sized beltline, the sleeves are puff, the cuffs oversized reaching the nook of the arm all screams romance.

Then the next model sports a bustier top in spaghetti straps paired with cigarette pants, almost mannish, softened by the shape as it followed the billowy curve of the female form.

Antonio Berardi was jumping back and forth the two sides of the fence and still kept his focus as he used cotton metal blends and triple chiffon for suiting.

Reinventing the cummerbund by making it the size of the obi while quilting it to the shape of the chastity belt to become a real belt, Berardi gave the illusion of lost innocence and worldliness.

Renaissance capes usually worn by men became evening gowns dripping with Swarovski crystals, or part of a blouse in black lace.

Beautiful as the collection was, the tailoring as masterful as we have always seen in Antonio Berardi’s works, this collection fell short of expectations. While his shows in Milan had always that ‘drop dead gorgeous’ feeling making it very unforgettable, Berardi’s Paris debut did not have the same ‘ump.’

Hopefully, this is just freshman jitters and next season here in Paris, Antonio Berardi will be back in top form.

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi