Balmain by Christophe Lebourg: Hedonist Glamour
By Mari Davis
Photos by Javier Mateo

PARIS, Mar 7, 2004/ FW/ --- For his second collection for the House of Balmain, Christophe Lebourg decided to mine the 1954 collection of Pierre Balmain himself and reintroduced the fitted suit. Then he added elements from the late photographer Helmut Newton’s hedonist glamour.

The result – a luxe collection of daywear and eveningwear that ranged from mannish suits to slinky gowns and fur.

On a red runway and black backdrop, Ohmyrha opened the show with a fitted black 6-button jacket and A-line skirt with a white fox stole. The single spotlight and background music of violins created a drama that set the tone of elegance and luxury.

Christophe Lebourg knew that he had a good thing going. Sending models with slick back hair, dark eye make-up and red lipstick, the Balmain woman for Fall 2004 plans to generate heat and frisson the moment she walks into a room.

She’s a chameleon, looking androgynous in her pinstripe velvet suit and white mannish shirt, with a red rose on her lapel as her only concession to femininity. Then she becomes mysterious and hard to fathom in her body hugging charcoal gray strapless gown and black transparent long gloves.

Or she can be the life of the party, looking like a rock star in her metallic gold pantsuit with unfinished hems and navel-baring short-cropped jacket.

As Christophe Lebourg said in his press notes, it’s “the hedonist glamour of Newton with the architectural rigour of Pierre Balmain.”

It’s the meeting of the two universes, hot red and mysterious black right until the end of the night.

Balmain by Christophe Lebourg

Balmain by Christophe Lebourg

Balmain by Christophe Lebourg

Balmain by Christophe Lebourg