Balmain's Graceful Poetry For Distracted Times
By: Timothy Hagy
Photos by: Javier Mateo
Paris, Oct 8, 2002/ FW/ --- On Monday it was the turn of Laurent Mercier, the new creative
director of the house who follows in the steps of Oscar de la Renta.
Showing his second collection for the house, Summer 2003 will be very soft and very feminine
chez Balmain.
The gently moving show unfolded before a sketch of the company's headquarters bathed in
black lights, and Mr. Mercier proved himself unswervingly loyal to the looming façade.
First down the runway were a set of 50s-style suits, worn with wide brimmed hats, and looking
as if the exquisite silk fabric had been sprinkled with red and brown flowers.
From the very opening moments, a nostalgic romance permeated his work.
The graceful poetry fit beautifully into a pattern that has been developing in Paris this
season, as designers search a leitmotif for distracted times.
The color palette was grounded in chestnut and ivory, though eventually blossomed into rose,
spring green and deep fuchsia.
Three were numerous highlights: as in a delicious chocolate dress with a scalloped cut that
draped to the knees, or a glazed leather top, the color of Sachertorte, worn with a light
chiffon skirt, as well as a set of full-length evening dresses with glittering sequined tops.
The couture look of the collection might strike some as a tad old-fashioned; yet it was full
of polish and imagination, really superfine.
What remains to be seen in the coming seasons, is how Mr. Mercier chooses to infuse more
modern ideas into the traditional image of this venerable Parisian house.
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