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Burberry Spring 2003
Milan Menswear Show Spring 2003

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We'll Put Our Stock In That: Burberry's Initial Public Offering Looks Exquisite
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD

Milan, Jun 26, 2002/FWD/ --- Talk about perfect timing to stage a great collection.

As the details of Burberry's IPO emerged in London, the house's young designer Chris Bailey presented his most accomplished collection to date, and the most coherent show in Milan so far this season.

With Burberry chairman Rose Marie Bravo being lauded as the ten-million-pound woman, for her role in rebuilding Burberry from a reputable but remote old name, the soundtrack fittingly opened with Squeeze's classic tune "Pulling Mussels from a Shell."

Perhaps the thought of stock options played a role, because this was by far Bailey's most confident collection since joining Burberry less than two years ago.

Not that his previous efforts were not accomplished.

But where his earlier shows tended to ape classic British popular images, this collection subverted and reinvented them astutely.

The thrown-together charm of the Burberry male models remains, but for spring summer 2003 they look like they all landed high-paying jobs.

Bailey pretty much steered clear of the house's signature before, but on Monday he opened with some great cotton shirts and clinging knit tops in sherbet and red plaids.

Chris also tapped into the house's military roots with a couple of khaki combat looks, worn with sensational posh punk zippered pants - making a great heroic look.

Designers in Milan have been wrestling with cut-off trousers for the city, and quite frankly most of the results have been ridiculous, both on models and a few far-out front-row editors.

Bailey, however, sent out striped shorts cut off below the knee and worn with a nylon fighter pilot top that really worked.

Other standouts were his multi-pocket nylon combat pants, sexy English shirts with shining stripes and figure-hugging velvet jackets.

Bailey is also a highly competent cutter, as his short cricket jackets, which didn't even reach the hip bone, and sleek peg-leg pants confirmed.

Admittedly, the collection and choice of models did seem targeted at a younger consumer than one normally associates with Burberry.

But if the result is a collection as strong as this, then let's go for it.

When does the stock hit the market again?

Burberry Menswear
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Burberry Menswear

Last updated June 26, 2002 fashionwindows.com,Inc© 1997-2008

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