Milan, Oct 1, 2001/ FWD/ --- The famous plaid was noticeably absent from Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2002 presentation in Milan today. Correction: it wasn’t snubbed completely, it was used in a more subtle way.

“The plaid will always be there, and we’ll always update it, but we moved away from it this particular collection,” designer Christopher Bailey explained to FWD.

It is the second season at Burberry for Brit Bailey, who took over the reins from Italian designer Roberto Menicheti in March. Bailey said that this collection “is about trying to capture the spirit in London. We looked at pictures of Twiggy and so on, but the collection is not really about a time in London, it’s more about an attitude. The idea of throwing on something comfy and easy like denim, and with that, a shirt that looks great, it’s something that the British do so well.”

The collection captured the essence of the young, hip London girl who wears city-smart pieces in a loose, carefree way, a touch undone, not quite polished to New York perfection.

One great look was a military trench coat in a heavy tobacco cotton, worn with black cotton top and pants and accented with a riveted deerskin bag worn around the waist like an ammunition belt. Another ensemble was perfect for browsing Portabello market on a Sunday afternoon: a washed white cotton pant suit with a dust pink twill shirt, accessorized with a taupe leather envelope bag and a riveted belt.

There were sexier, edgier looks, too. A black silk suit was paired with a striped tank and a metallic chain wallet. In a silk crepe tie-neck dress, drawstrings hanging untied, the model with subtle makeup and messy hair looked like she suddenly decided to go out partying, and knowing she already looked good, threw on heels and a swipe of lipstick and was ready to rock.