LONDON, Sep 15, 2002/ FWD/ --- When it comes to Burberry there are two collections -- Burberry London is the one that features the classic trench and raincoats, everyday knits, jeans, T-shirts, sweaters, shoes, bags, and cheeky little skirts.

Burberry Prorsum is more experimental, more luxurious, and shows on the catwalk in Milan.

Burberry London is the one that reaches the widest global audience and attracts interest from cool chicks, chic women, and older sophisticates alike.

This was Christopher Bailey's third Burberry London collection, but to him it feels more like the first.

"I worked on this collection from zero," he said from the crowded cocktail party at Burberry's flagship London store on Haymarket this afternoon.

There are 30 outfits, eight for men, and 22 for women.

"I looked at all the icon Burberry pieces, then reproportioned and refabricated them."

He points out a slim white canvas trench with an industrial zipper running asymmetrically across it, then an olive strapless sweatshirt dress that pulls in at the waist with a drawstring, then a white cotton aertex tank, then a wraparound canvas mini with buckles, pockets, and rivets placed all over.

They are among the favorites in a range which blends sportswear, aviation, and classic British tailoring influences.

The canvas skirt is his particular favorite: "It says everything about Burberry. The skirt is waterproof, has trench details and is also very fashion. I see it as an accessible accessory."

In addition there is a beautiful slim white single breasted cotton canvas trouser suit, a roughed up Belstaff inspired leather jacket and a elegant black kilt.

Not very high summer, but will work for those non-sweltering days.

"What I wanted to do was not about opulence, but a quiet luxury. I wanted to deformalize the tailoring, make it more relaxed, make each piece feel like something you can wear and love. I want each piece to have the feeling of an old favorite, and be a garment that ages with you, like jeans. I have a strong feeling for casual, we are moving towards it with this."

In addition to presenting the collection, the designer styled a shoot, on display in the store, with fashion photographer Allan Scrimgour, who photographed the pieces the way Bailey imagines them being worn.

This is an echo of the monthly cult Dazed & Confused column "The way I want my clothes to be seen."

The models in the shoot are people Bailey found in the street, and shopping the store as well as models.

"We have such a wide range of customers, and I wanted to show how different people can wear the clothes."

Among the models is a builder and an elegant woman in her 60's.

Burberry London

Burberry London

Burberry London