MILAN, Jun 25, 2006/ FW/ --- It is often said that someone’s psychological state will affect how they choose to dress. Dictums relating the length of hemlines to the state of the economy are certainly much too simplistic but that doesn’t mean that there is no truth in the proposition at all. Witness Christopher Bailey who, after passing a traumatic year on a personal level, concocted a veritable cocoon of a summer wardrobe for the Burberry man.

The climate of Bailey’s home region in the north of England may not be exactly tropical but when summer looks come rolling down the runway combining jumpers, overcoats and wooly hats, you start to ask yourself if wrapping-up could be as much to protect a fragile psyche from a cruel world as the body from a harsh wind.

Following on from the winter collection, we were still being encouraged to dress up as neckties ruled the roost and, even on the daywear, sparkling bands gave trousers the tuxedo treatment. With its refined, tailored tone counterbalanced by disheveled details like pushed up sleeves, it all could have been inspired by a rather eccentric aristocrat but, at times the beauty of the clothes was diminished somewhat by over exuberant styling.

If, as Catch 22 states, the fundamental prerequisite of being mad is to believe that you are not, then here the exits strayed dangerously close to affectation with, for example, micro thin belts risking to unbalance silhouettes. That is not to say that they didn’t work well elsewhere.

On military style trenches they managed to render the perennial staple of the Burberry wardrobe once again fresh - not an easy feat to perform several times a year but one that Bailey manages with aplomb. This time they were large in the cut with big buttons or oversized shoulder flaps.

A special mention goes to the accessories, which were excellent throughout, especially the retro style satchels with their twill and leather construction invoking old-school craftsmanship.

The colours were a subtle affair with powder pinks, baby blues and the lightest of grays checking the dominance of white. Thankful we were as well for at least one element to remind us that this was in fact a summer collection!

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum