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Diego Binetti's Enchanting Debut
By Eri Kim
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Feb 16, 2002/ FWD/ --- Diego Binetti held a small and charming collection Saturday,
which showcased his unique sense of balance, volume and color.
Opening the show was a fur-lined jacket with a big collar over a white Edwardian top,
bright orange corduroy pants and a drawstring fur bag.
Binetti gave the fur a downtown feel by cutting it tight to the body like a denim jacket.
The Edwardian blouse was cinched tight in the waist, creating a big yet flowing volume on top.
Orange cords may seem a bizarre choice to complete the ensemble, but worn with high heels,
it seemed just right.
Formerly the design director of Jill Stuart, Binetti -- whose debut collection was canceled
last season, as many other shows were -- has a liking for the girlish.
But his tongue-in-cheek approach gives his designs a refreshing edge.
A sharp military jacket in purple with orange piping, for instance, was matched with a
delicate pin-tuck blouse and a brandy-colored velvet skirt.
A recurring feature was Scottish knee-high socks, done in gray and purple with colorful
patterns, worn with everything from sheer evening dresses, boys’ knickers and velvet
skirts -- regardless of whether it went with the color or fabric of the outfit.
And that approach made the looks playful instead of contrived.
Other designers are still working on wide-legged pants this season, but Binetti’s idea of
cool were cords like jogging pants with ribbed ankles.
Low-waisted with a relaxed fit and combined with spiky heels, they – dare we say – made you
want to tuck your pants into your boots.
Turning around another ‘80s faux pas, the designer took the much-laughed-at balloon pant,
gave it a narrow shape and made it look like an utterly clever skirt.
Other hits were open-backed tops cut like a loose blouse with high crochet collars.
The same soft, ballooning effect was given to turtleneck tops with exaggerated, wide waists,
and sleeves in a different material.
Binetti also showed some cleverly-cut black chiffon dresses -- one with a black rose
adoring one shoulder was a standout -- with asymmetrical, layered hems that beautifully
puffed up as the models walked.
With 24 outfits, the show escaped being repetitive, and it was enough to prove that Binetti
has his own thing going on.
Diego Binetti
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