PARIS, Feb 2, 3005/ FW/ – Walking on the moon in a deep forest, Dirk Schonberger’s urban jungle has a dark side for autumn winter 2005/06.

Moving to an enclosed venue after seasons on end under the alfresco enclaves of the Beaux Arts, as beautiful as it may be, decisively change the way one, protected from Parisian down pours and low temperatures, views the collection.

Neat as always, the Belgian designer adds functional tailored detail to his staple pieces such as edging and front seamed ‘banana pants’. Trousers are buttoned Naval style with double-breasted jackets and Tuxedo shirts become less intimidating and wearable during the day.

The classic five pocket jean is left aside and denim is instead cut like classic trousers, pockets are large and multi on trench coats and drawstrings are easy to handle in the winter cold, while silky trousers reminiscent of pajama pants are delightfully comfortable and witty.

Schonberger works towards a thin rock bad boy turned good guy silhouette with torsos wrapped in wool knit and mohair worn often under classic blazers with long lapels that meet at a single button.

Music motifs run throughout the show. Beginning with the music selection itself, cult hits from The Cure accompany the neat haired boys that wear guitars printed on T’s, and sparkle in touches of silver used as feature stripe on an otherwise predominantly dark palette.

Dirk Schonberger delivers a strong collection, that makes a statement in menswear without the full frontal aggressive methods he has used in the past, but instead in an eclectic mix of diversity that surrounds him.

Dirk Schönberger

Dirk Schönberger

Dirk Schönberger

Dirk Schönberger