Emanuel Ungaro by Giambattista Valli: High Romance
By Timothy Hagy
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Mar 7, 2003/ FW/ --- The dove gray invitations to the Ungaro show were scrawled with the word "Love" and affixed with a crystal tear drop. The sentiment being conveyed was probably not so much a commentary on the sadness of current world events as a reflection of Giambattista Valli's romantic nature. For the truth is that someone who loves candlelight and lilies could only be destined for romance.
At age 36, and born in Rome the year after Emauel Ungaro opened his couture house, Giambattista is the energetic force behind the Ready-To-Wear lines of the label.
Today's show, his third for Ungaro, was his strongest yet and certainly cemented his growing reputation as one of the finest of the young set of Parisian designers now coming onto the scene.
Before a spellbound audience, the show unfolded to music that sounded as if it was constructed from the mesmorizing cadence of a wind chime. Applause broke out the minute curtains lifted to reveal a circular crystal stage sprinkled with diamond dust. Three silver balls were strewn on the floor, looking as if they had fallen straight from a ballroom ceiling.
The opening quintet of gray mousseline dresses featured cagoules and boléros of knitted cashmere and rabbit. Tops and slacks fluttered with streamers that looked as if they might float right off the stage.
As the unbleached look eventually colored to dusty rose and magenta, chiffon was gracefully imprinted and layered.
Coats were affixed with the words "Lumière, Illimité, and Love" spelled out with glittering diamonds. A serpent figure was mysteriously applied to in both black and silver.
The legerity of the winter collection exuded an underlying sensuality. It was like the feeling of romance pervasively tugging at your heart: almost as if you were bitten by love, just watching the gorgeous pieces pass by.
The real tour de force, however, was a finale of layered cream silk printed with lavender motifs then dusted with sequins. The dresses were worn over gold tights for a finish sure to capture attention.
Backstage, Giambattista explained "The collection was all about sentiment. I wanted to make poetic and romantic dresses, and so I used all the layering to do it."
And it's certain that come next fall; women will fall in love with this superb collection for Emanuel Ungaro.
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