PARIS, Mar 2, 2005/ FW/ --- Debuting for Emanuel Ungaro this season, Vincent Darré used the Emanuel Ungaro headquarters as the backdrop, automatically sending the message that the venerable fashion house is going back to its roots and the things that made Emanuel Ungaro famous.

With dramatic music playing on the background and the houselights turned off except for two spotlights in a make-believe store window, a model in each one standing like mannequins, it was a breathtaking show from there on.

On a U-shaped catwalk, the newly appointed Creative director of the house sent models in pairs, walking on each leg of the U, the silhouettes based in the beginning of the House when Emanuel Ungaro was collaborating with Cristobal Balenciaga.

It was about volume and texture, draping and mastery of tailoring techniques, simple lines made graceful with bows, knots and ruching.

And from the house’s archives, Vincent Darré unearthed precious prints by artist Sonja Knapp, who also collaborated with Emanuel Ungaro early on.

Showing the geometric forms, round shapes and graphic prints to a whole new generation of fashionistas, the House of Ungaro just gained a lot of new fans. As the saying goes, great art never goes out of style, and that includes the house’s original print fabrics.

Translated into modern silhouettes for today, the geometric prints became dress suits for the workingwoman, a tote for the girl-about-town, a wrap doubling as a blouse for the cold winter nights. It became a sheath dress for dining out and a full-length gown for a date at the opera.

The emphasis was on the clothes, as Vincent Darré gave a nod to the “let the clothes do the talking” trend that came out of Milan.

And in doing so, he also allowed the House of Ungaro to speak, while his voice was also heard as he interpreted the classic Emanuel Ungaro designs for the contemporary woman of today.

Emanuel Ungaro by Vincent Darré

Emanuel Ungaro by Vincent Darré

Emanuel Ungaro by Vincent Darré

Emanuel Ungaro by Vincent Darré