PARIS, Mar 3, 2006/ FW/ --- Making his debut for Emanuel Ungaro yesterday, Norwegian designer Peter Hyde Dundas brought new aesthetics to the French fashion house that gave it an edgy feel while keeping the legacy of its founding designer.

Dundas who was working for Roberto Cavalli before moving to Emanuel Ungaro brought a touch of the Italian designer’s fantasy style as seen on the feathered cape that looked like a bird plumage and the double-belted black & white fur coat with high collar that looked like a cross from the front and back as the white defined the model’s torso and arms against a black background.

A Jean-Paul Gaultier veteran also, Dundas sent leather corset and bustier style blouses on the runway.

Keeping the collection modern and edgy, there were biker-inspired jackets and coats with zips and feather that were cut slim giving a nod to the slender trend of the season.

It was in the evening gowns that Dundas excelled, and touched on the legacy of Emanuel Ungaro. Sexy & svelte, Dundas seem to be aiming for red carpet glamour, which hopefully will bring the house once again on the map of celebrity & Hollywood dressing.

And Dundas message – layering, volume and texture as he mixed and matched unexpected prints. A one-shouldered animal print blouse was ruche right below the bustline, giving a sunburst effect, then black and signature Emanuel prints were added, again ruche asymmetrically for the sunburst effect.

Gemma Ward’s two-tone gown exemplifies best Dundas’ method. A blue gray base garment that defined the figure were swathed with beige chiffon on the bustline and on the hipline, then cascading all the way to the floor gave it a slinky effect without being vulgar.

Though for his debut, Dundas did not move the label forward, he gave the audience an inkling of what is to come for this venerable French fashion house.

Emanuel Ungaro by Peter Hyde Dundas

Emanuel Ungaro by Peter Hyde Dundas

Emanuel Ungaro by Peter Hyde Dundas

Emanuel Ungaro by Peter Hyde Dundas