Emanuel Ungaro: An Elegant Poem
By Timothy Hagy
(Photos by Reuters)
PARIS, July 9, 2003/ FW/ --- Emanuel Ungaro sent out a stellar couture collection on Wednesday afternoon
displaying both his inherent grace, and his poetic grasp of a classical
silhouette.
A deco stage was built of white cubes of light from which the models
descended a short staircase before making their way down a flaxen runway.
Among the celebrities present front row were British socialite Tamara
Beckwith, and wife of American billionaire, Suzanne Saperstein.
From the first sets of creamy ecru day dresses paired with immaculately
tailored jackets, it was clear that the romance of a time forgotten was
being jolted back to the here and now like a bright flash of a beautiful
memory.
The exquisite draping of satin dresses, the intricately scalloped
chiffon sleeves, the liquorice-colored jackets trimmed with tastefully
sequined borders brought with them a seductive allure that is all too often
missing from the catwalks of the 21st century.
Yves Saint Laurent used to
have it, and Karl Lagerfeld still does: the ability to transcend gimmicky
fashion moments and to refine an idea again and again until you arrive at
quintessential elegance.
"The first part is intentionally sober, intentionally like finding back your
memory," Ungaro told reporters backstage. "Given that I am often criticized
for wanting to pile on too many things at once, I told it simply, like a
poem."
So, it was almost as if Ungaro made an 'in your face' reaction to certain
editors' criticism of his previous collection.
He chose a sound track with
the refrain "smoke, smoke that cigarette" to rebuff any suggestion he was
out of synch with the times.
Elegance is never passé, and the details in this fall couture collection
were striking: sleeves gracefully fringed with black taffeta, a crimson
satin kimono trimmed with a brilliant gold brocade, a red silk day dress
wrapped with a fanciful border of turquoise.
Then there were the signature prints, and the colors broke almost like a
kaleidoscope.
While wispy hand painted silk floated along in trains, the
palette of caramel, cocoa and cinnamon gave way to a mosaic of embroidery of
ruby, emerald and sapphire tops sparkling over black pants laced with crêpe.
The abstract paintings of Klandinsky and Delaunay inspired the shapes.
With the appearance of a pale champagne green cocktail dress draped in
luscious chiffon, every woman in the house practically gasped, marveling at
the absolute perfection of the piece.
A series of glittering evening gowns led to the most beautiful wedding dress
shown this couture season.
There is no hiding from elegance, and so Emanuel Ungaro is at his absolute
finest when he is himself.
For those who might suggest he is otherwise, the soundtrack said it best.
"Thank you ladies. I don't give a damn."
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