PARIS, Oct 6, 2004/ FW/ --- With no haute couture show last July for the House of Ungaro, it was a full house at the Louvre today for the Emanuel Ungaro show, with fashion’s most important editors sitting at the front row.

In a way, it was the start of a new era for Emanuel Ungaro, as the founder of the house decided to bow out of haute couture and concentrate on new lines, while enjoying a semi-retirement from the world of high fashion.

So, in this auspicious moment, everyone’s eyes are on Giambattista Valli, Emanuel Ungaro’s handpicked heir, as he showed his sixth collection for the house.

Opting for his signature look of romance with an edge, the Italian-born designer sent bustiers with puff sleeves, ruche dresses, multi-layered gowns with tone on tone colors and harem-inspired pants matched with barely-there chiffon blouses.

An exuberant coloring, Valli played with all the colors of the rainbow, from sorbet shades to deep purple.

Embroidered and embossed, with tassels as sashes, it was for a modern day royal court. Ah, if only Marie Antoinette can see it now, she would have a field day!

It was beautiful from beginning to end, with the drama strategically placed on the alpha and omega.

The show opened with a video reminiscent of the just concluded Olympics with a male model wearing the traditional Greek toga. With splashing water everywhere, it was mysterious and aroused the curiosity of the audience, which in the end became an introduction to the collection.

The ending was equally dramatic, with 10 models wearing burqas. Is it a political statement or a fashion one? I guess it is for the audience to decide.

Emanuel Ungaro by Giambattista Valli

Emanuel Ungaro by Giambattista Valli

Emanuel Ungaro by Giambattista Valli