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Emanuel Ungaro: A Kaleidoscope of Color
By: Timothy Hagy
Photos by Javier Mateo
Paris, Jul 11, 2002/ FW/ --- "Sublime," said one French woman to another on leaving the
Emanuel Ungaro couture show this afternoon, and her comment could well summarize the
thoughts of many who jammed the Carreau du Temple.
Before a backdrop of towering Coconut Palms imprinted on an azure sky, a magnificent tribute
to Indochina unfolded to the beat of native drums.
Charcoal gray chairs were set up alongside a runway of black crystal.
The front row sparkled in the flash of cameras following a galaxy of French stars, the
Spanish supermodel Inès Sastre, and even Ivana Trump.
Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld, Kal Ruttenstein, and Suzy Menkes came to represent the fashion
world.
There was a majesty to the show, a polish that you would expect from one of the venerable
Parisian Fashion Houses.
But even more impressive was the work of Emanuel Ungaro, whose bold tapestry of colors and
refined artistry could well be compared to say, Gaugin, who himself once fell victim to the
seductiveness of the tropics.
And that is the essence of Haute Couture.
The polish is in the detail, whether it be applied to jewel-encrusted jackets or shimmering
gowns of chiffon, lace and velour.
Above all, it is the creative eye that pieces it all together.
The models came down the catwalk with hair appearing wind blown, pulled into tails and exotic
spikes.
Gradually, the soundtrack changed to classical themes.
The mixing of a motive from the Ravel String Quartet with a native drumbeat, actually worked,
and signaled in a larger way, the ability to fuse two vastly different cultures.
The same could be said of the collection, the inspiration of which was Laotian peasant
dresses.
Ungaro then took the idea, and following a more classical approach to couture, created a
stunning array of suits, coats and evening gowns.
He even brought back samples of authentic fabrics, and then had them reproduced in Paris.
Even leopard skin pelts found their way into the trimming.
As it all drew to a magnificent conclusion, accompanied by the strains of Gustav Holst's
Jupiter, applause erupted.
The audience spontaneously rose for a standing ovation, as a master couturier, Emauel Ungaro
now age 69, took a long, and well-deserved bow.
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