Pucci by Christian Lacroix Fall 2003
Milan Womenswear Fall 2003
Pucci by Christian Lacroix: Pucci on the Piste
Photo by Gruber
MILAN, Mar 6, 2003/ --- Emilio Pucci, an experienced skier himself, would have enjoyed
this latest collection from the house he founded.
At least half the clothes were designed with St Moritz or Vail in mind.
In Christian Lacroix's second collection for Pucci, the designer hit the slopes -
or, more frequently, the apres-ski cocktails -- with hooded jerseys, skinny moon boots,
high-waisted skating skirts and padded silk jacquard vests.
Lacroix's skill as a colorist was evident in his use of the house's complex graphic prints,
like the re-introduced Vivara, and his own melanges of pink, turquoise and geranium.
His tight cabled pullovers with reinforced arms or patterned silk fronts and, in particular,
a ribbed sweater dress worn by Dewi looked great.
Yet there were almost as many spills as successful runs in this show, where drooping silk tops
added 20 pounds to some skinny models and one-legged culottes morphed into unlikely dresses.
Never mind some embroidered leather pants and pleated chiffon skirts that really jarred,
and begged the question, "why weren't these edited out?"
And while plumbing the '60s for inspiration is all very well, it seems an odd way to update
a house whose founder is remembered for designing medals for US astronauts, one of which
is still on the moon.
How about a little "boldly go where no man has gone," Christian?
Regardless, after stumbling through a string of young designers, Pucci appears to have
found its man with Lacroix, whose Beefeaters fur hats in pastels, peacock patterned coats,
and dresses composed of shards and strips of silk will all make for strong editorial coverage.
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