Emilio Pucci by Matthew Williamson Fall 2006: Preserving The Spirit of The House
Milan Womenswear Show (Milano Moda Donna) Fall 2006
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Feb 21, 2006/ FW/ --- The highly anticipated debut of British designer Matthew Williamson at Emilio Pucci was a statement in colorful solid colors with the signature prints of the house used as highlights, rather than the main attraction.
Seen in leggings, several dresses and skirts and as linings of coats and jackets, the trademark Pucci prints became a rare commodity, doled out like precious jewels.
Though the collection did not come out as somber with the use of black and beige, the presence of purple, blue, lavender and silver proved once again that Matthew Williamson is a great colorist.
Following the big footsteps of French couturier Christian Lacroix can be intimidating to a young designer. But Williamson handled it very well by preserving the spirit of the house while putting his own creative efforts to shine through.
The result, a collection that will surely get the cash registers ringing when it hits the stores, but not moving the brand forward.
In some ways, Matthew Williamson is also following the path that Christian Lacroix took, that is to introduce the brand to a young generation.
So, the London-based designer sent out blouses and dresses with baby collars, high-waist minis adorned with colorful semi-precious stones on the embedded belt, and knit mohair sweater dresses with cowl necklines.
Fur was also used sparingly, seen only as collars and cuffs on sleeves and as a vest shaped like a bib when worn.
It has all the elements of what the market wants. And in a season when China threatens the Italian fashion industry with its cheap labor, commercial viability had become a must for most fashion houses.
With this collection, Matthew Williamson made sure that Emilio Pucci would find its way into many women’s wardrobe, and then some.
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