Even in an industry famed for its eccentric characters and erratic behavior, Kean Etro is a powerfully individualistic example of sui generis.

Etro, despite the lack of an official title, is the driving force behind one of Italy's most wonderful family brands, as well as being an iconoclast with a capital I.

In the last Milan men's season he led a parade of oxen pulling carts bearing brightly clad youths down Milan's chicest street, via Montenapoleone; last night in New York he screened a video of himself reciting poetry.

Though his family business is based in Italy (the home of the Papacy let's remember), Kean admits to being fascinated by pagan culture; and while Etro has become the brand of choice for well-heeled urban hipsters with a sense of humor, Kean actually doesn't like being in cities.

"Basically I prefer the country. Don't get me wrong, New York is great, but do I really need to check out the latest restaurants, visit Nolita and shop in vintage shops for ideas like loads of designers? The answer is a big no!" he told FWD in a peripatetic interview that began on the third floor of Bergdorf Goodman and continued on a dusty staff elevator and then a chilly 58th Street, as Kean desperately tried find a place in Mayor Bloomberg's Manhattan to smoke one of his beloved Gaulloise reds.

"God, I needed a smoke. Let's hope this mayor is not doing his rounds," Kean laughs in his usual hearty manner, as he lights up opposite FAO Schwarz.

But don't get the impression that Kean is a polluter; anything but. One of his latest schemes is developing what he terms "bio-dynamic" clothes for disabled people.

"We are working with a number of scientists and engineers to create fabrics and clothes for people in wheelchairs. Clearly we have to develop apparel that really helps them, otherwise it is just some stupid PR position," explains Kean, an active participant in Sana, the new alternative resources get-together and green gathering in Bologna.

He's also generous with his time. Last month Etro turned out with a team of Milan design honchos -- Santo Versace, Renzo Rosso from Diesel, Francesco Trussardi, Massimo Ferragamo, Carlo Capasa of Costume National, Neil Barrett and John Richmond -- in a charity soccer match against Italian Formula One racers to benefit the families of 9/11 victims.

Fabrics for the home remain an important though minority element in Etro's turnover. "People don't change the look of their bedrooms half as much as the look of themselves, which is probably a good thing."

"I know times are tough, but I have to say we are thanking our good luck. Business is good for us pretty well everywhere," shrugs Kean, who just celebrated getting Etro into 40 multi-brand boutiques in England alone.

Etro was founded back in 1968, producing signature cashmere paisley fabrics, before branching into fashion and eventually scents. The house's headquarters is a wonderful Art Nouveau building in a key fashion neighborhood just around the corner from Prada.

The label has successfully ridden out the current downturn. Kean was able to boast that Etro has had a 25 percent increase this year in business in their women's fashion, which is designed by Kean's sister Veronica, a graduate of London's famed fashion school St Martins. Brothers Jacopo and Ippolito also work in the family firm, whose boss remains papa Gimmo.

Driven by Kean's fertile mind and innate marketing skills, Etro has developed a loyal fan base here in New York, as was evident from the huge crowds who thronged into Bergdorf Goodman Thursday night for a party for the label's 700-square-foot in-house boutique.

"Etro has a cult following," said Robert Burke, the department store's vice president fashion director, who noted Bergdorf Goodman had over 600 phone calls responding to the invitation. "Eventually we had to unplug the phone."

Burke continued, "Kean is very charismatic and he has shaken the dust off. Kean is the Etro guy. He's the one driving the brand. And the result is that Etro is one of the top vendors as designers go for us. It has tapped into a market that's responded very strongly to color and pattern, for an American consumer this a new way of dressing."

The trend towards individuality in fashion has been a boon for Etro, but he thinks there's a limit to how far that can go. "When Tom Ford says that made-to-measure is back you have to pay attention. But basically made-to-measure is a pain in the ass. Because you need an exceptionally well-managed store for that to work and a super tailor to provide the right level of service and you know how easy they are to find? Nearly impossible."

In terms of disposition, Kean is light-years away from the clichéd, tortured Continental designer - this is one young man who clearly loves his work, especially anything to do with his roots. Though he was brought up and resides in Milan, Kean frequently refers to himself as a Celt and loves discussing his rambles around the isles of Scotland and the west of Ireland.

"I still buy my Harris tweed from a supplier in the Outer Hebrides. They still run their looms with their feet using a bicycle. Can you dig that?! I mean, this isn't Pakistan; these people are Brits! The last time I was there, they told me, 'Kean, we have a major new development in production,' and I was expecting them to say they had bought a computer. Instead, the big news was that they had upgraded the bicycle that turns their looms to a mountain bike," he laughs.

Menswear Etro Spring 2006 (Photo by Giovanni Pucci)

Spring 2007 (Photo by Giovanni Pucci)

Website: www.etro.it

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