Exte: ‘Spy Girls’
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci

MILAN, Feb 28, 2004/ FW/ – Tough and sportively dangerous, the Exte woman flows in movement and dances in the moonlight as she celebrates her victories. Exte designer Sergio Ciucci for fall 2004/05 offers a collection slim and taught for his dark queens.

Dancers appear in windows and move in the shadows as sensual choreography by Bill Goodson in a crossing over between ‘Broadway with Las Vegas strip chic and Moulin Rouge deep red Eros’ sets souls on fire and movement becomes contagious.

Precise and exotic she is doused mystery. Her trousers are tight on matchstick legs and she plays with fetishism in long leather boots, lacing and belts, metallic flashes dominatrix in style yet fur is luxurious and ironically active with ‘adidas’ double stripes down arms.

Spy style references to Shaft and 007 Bond come in circular geometrically stitched patterns with visible fraying seams on mini jackets, is this freedom or searching to get out of the cage?

The Pencil skirts often zipped and jackets that sit on the hips are juxtaposed against more feminine elements for this dark lady, such as bows, chiffon and bon ton pleating. She is layered or minimal, flowing and lightweight or a slim feline silhouette with a Swarovski glittering long buckle.

Evenings are glamorous with dresses that come together in a mix of elastic hips, rouging, sparkles and sportive elements mixed with cascading tails.

Exte crosses boundaries and mixes styles, tailoring and volume for his modern day spy that is both charmingly illusive and intriguingly genuine.

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