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Gianfranco Ferre: Revolutionary Elegance
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
More Photos: >>>[1] [2]
MILAN, Jun 27, 2003 /FW/ --- Clean cut, well mannered but not too formal, modern but
slightly reserved in his masculinity, this is the man Gianfranco Ferre proposed for
spring summer 2004 last Wednesday in Milan.
Crisp clothes for a ship filled with elegant gentlemen, the designer opens with
double breasted coats, large button holed knit cardigans with leather trim complemented
with cool white linen pants, so crisp that he becomes a protagonist whenever he decides
to disembark.
Ferre has always tried to 'define a distinct balanced elegance that is traditional but also
characterised by eccentric modernity'.
Ferre likes things big, cuts, checks and super visible mega logo, or part of it, a single F.
Jeans are in linen denim with large upturned ends that are formalised with a double breasted
tailored jacket and tie, but that still manages to maintain a free sea spirit through cuffs
and collars not being in perfect order.
Trousers are generally wide for comfort and lightness, but they do not permit slopiness,
checks are mixed with stripes, there are influences of marines and colonialism, plus that
of wokers and artists of the 1900's.
Leather is one of Ferre's specialities and the highest quality is used always, whether
in the form of jackets or accessories, make-shift key rings as wrist watches and knit
and leather golfing gloves, wide belts or dress shoes without socks.
A finale of beauiful white blouses in worked lace and embroidery swaned down the catwalk
with an intellectual vagueness.
Ferre rarely goes unnoticed and this time he opts for an almost ironic take on
elegance and seriousness where his young men are perhaps revolutionary, but in great need
of freedom.
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