Gianfranco Ferré Fall 2007: Is Beauty Only ‘Skin’ Deep?
Milano Moda Donna (Milan Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Lyndsey Wong
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Feb 23, 2007/ FW/ --- This season as Gianfranco Ferre attempted androgyny he found himself on a journey where he discovered a passion for femininity. The beautiful collection he showed this season reflected and catalogued his voyage and the evolution of his woman.
The first model down the runway was pale skinned and red headed but the catch 22 was he was not a she. This was Ferre’s way of setting the mood for the female. Menswear influence was strong at the beginning of the show.
Suits and coats eventually transformed from utterly masculine to fabulous feminine re-inventions. After only a few exits the loafer flats paired with jackets and coats turned to heels with jacket and bows.
Jacket sleeves got wider and mirrored kimono sleeves while the pinstripes and other “manly” fabrics, stayed. Long gloves covered ¾ of the arm as jacket sleeves were cut short. Intricate details lined closures as striped furs blended with wools.
Ferre’s modern woman does not need to wear a man’s suit to be powerful, her own unique ensemle will do just fine.
Wide three quarter length bell-sleeves played a large roll in the silohette. Jacket’s, shirts, and sweaters reflected this modern shogun shape. Through large rounded collars and golden details, Ferre painted a vision that seemed more feminine than masculine, despite the influences.
Thick, black, warrior belts were the closure for many knee length coats. As the silohette changed and became slimmer, gold zippers and pocket details became the important elements of design. Gloves a very important accessories were all black and long portraying class and S&M at the same time.
Ferre’s clothes have been known to be unique, because of his original training as an architect. Many of the pieces this season showed this blend of genius and it’s new modern look.
Skirts gathered on one side of a seam and fanned on another. Materials grew more feminine as the show went on. Metallic, still huge this season, transformed gold’s and silvers into slim fitting clothes.
As the show went on and jackets made way for dresses, small details and contrast materials played a huge part on necklines, waistlines and hemlines. Sac dresses with chiffon tops blended down into beads then shimmering materials. From their evening were evolved and hemlines dropped to the floor.
Fabrics were very rich and luxurious adding a stronger sensuality to the Ferre woman. The last dresses of the show were floor length strapless sac dresses that draped around the bodies. Ferre then reminded everyone that the original inspiration was the male as two models in slender evening tops and pants exited followed by the male.
But then came the real surprise, the person behind the voice to the songs. Skin, was the last model to close the show. Dressed in a floor length velvet cape, black pants and a top made of real diamonds outlaid in strands on chiffon. It was strong and aggressive yet charming at the same time.
Gianfranco Ferre can always be counted on to tell a story to take the viewer on a journey. This season his un-veilment of the new woman was a charming, energizing show. He created ethereal beauty so touching it went beyond skin deep and transported into an energy you could feel at the show. There couldn’t be a better way to end such a collection then with diamonds on a surprise appearance of a rock star.
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