PARIS, Mar 12, 2002/ --- The slightly roundabout career of Alber Elbaz, who has designed at four houses in half a decade, hit a new high Sunday with an elegantly inventive debut collection for Lanvin.

This week will see the debuts of new designers at half a dozen venerable French houses, ranging from Balmain to Jaques Fath.

But due to Elbaz’s sterling reputation, his was the most eagerly awaited.

He didn’t disappoint, presenting an accomplished collection that pumped some much needed zest into Lanvin, a house that has drifted since the ‘80s.

Fittingly, the opulent show was staged in the marbled splendor of the Petit Palais.

Elbaz opened with a group of coatdresses and suits with ragged, raised hems, jazzed up with shells and paillettes, that looked very strong yet sensitive.

As Elbaz showed in his three previous positions at Guy Laroche, YSL and Krizia Top, he is a naturally gifted tailor.

The cashmere coats with high collars, curved shoulders and waists cinched with multi-strand leather belts were beautifully cut.

He also can make grand luxury that’s not stiff, such as the amazing coat with burgundy leather sleeves and back and a rough fox front, or the topcoat composed of a mink torso that gradually grew into fox fur below the waist.

And for evening, his deceptively simple black dresses with accordion pleats and piping looked new and flattering.

"I wanted to make clothes for people like us," Elbaz told reporters as he opened up his arms and palms to include his friends backstage, among whom was a congratulating Kal Ruttenstein, Bloomingdale’s legendary fashion director.

Alber, you just did.

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz