Lanvin by Alber Elbaz: Close To You
By Timothy Hagy
(Photos by Javier Mateo)
PARIS, Mar 11, 2003/ FW/ --- Who would have believed the sight? There they were, all sitting together rive gauche at the Lanvin show this afternoon: a long list of New York editors, those fashion specialists who've long dreamed of serving each other cyanide-laced martinis.
On the rive droite side, Pierre Bergé and Didier Grumbach, a bickering duo with a long history of repartee, were separated only by one meek referee. But by the time Karen Carpenter reached the refrain of "Close To You" at the finale of the show, everybody was all smiles.
On a warm spring Sunday afternoon, Alber Elbaz sent out a polished and elegant collection for Lavin: one that seemed to please even the most persnickety of Fashionista.
And rightfully so, because it was a winner of a collection. From the very first pleated black cocktail dress accented with plumes, to a two piece suit tied with velvet bows, the look was sophisticated and refined.
The elegant scripted Lanvin invitations embossed with a gold logo spoke volumes about the image being projected by the House. With men's wear designer Christophe Blondin defecting to Kenzo, it's a good thing that Elbaz is having such success on the women's side.
No sign of PETA, fortunately‹ for furs were flying, with variations including leopard coats and jackets, and even mink sleeves highlighting a chocolate leather dress. An absolutely stunning strapless leopard skin top was paired with black molding slacks tied up with satin ribbon.
Pleats, another strong feature, appeared convincingly in a poppy red cocktail dress, and were later folded with chartreuse and sky blue to create two-toned skirts.
From a dazzling silver lamé dress, to glistening silver appliqué, the figure a cross between a dove and eagle, Alber Elbaz's eye for detail was evident. An Israeli-American, and protégé of Saint Laurent, his appointment at Lanvin is certainly breathing new life into the venerable Parisian House.
While the powers that be teeter between the hawks and the doves, there was a brief pause this afternoon as the charming collection passed by.
"Why do birds suddenly appear
Every time you are near?
Just like me, they long to be
Close to you.
|
