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Lanvin
Alber Elbaz for Lanvin
By: Mari Davis
Photo below: Alber Elbaz on the runway, Fall 2005.
Photo by Javier Mateo
Jeanne Lanvin founded Lanvin in Paris in 1890 as a custom children's clothes shop. After
two decades (1909) it started offering women's clothing. After 17 years, the line was
expanded to men's wear and fragrances.
Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) was best known for the youthful look of her designs. She did not
sketch nor drape; instead gave instructions to skechers. She is remembered well for her
"split coat for bicycling" which she introduced after World War II.
After her death, her family continued the business. However, the house has been something of
a sleeping beauty since the early ‘80s.
After L'Oreal acquired its initial interest in Lanvin in 1990, the house has gone through
four designers without ever finding a clear focus.
Last October 2001, Lanvin announced the appointment of Alber Elbaz as the new creative director.
Elbaz, an Israeli-American who began his career assisting Geoffrey Beene, is one of the
best-liked designers in the industry. He first garnered attention after he was appointed
designer of Guy Laroche in the mid-1990s and produced a series of commercially and critically
acclaimed collections.
Elbaz subsequently became women's ready-to-wear designer of YSL Rive Gauche, but left that
house after it was acquired by Gucci Group in late 1999. His most recent position was
designing Krizia Top in Milan.
After presenting a superb opening collection there, he ended his involvement after failing
to agree to terms.
Elbaz'z appointment, which had been widely expected, marks a major new chapter at Lanvin,
which was acquired in August, 2001 by an investor group led by Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese
media baroness.
On his appointment as creative director, Alber Elbaz said, "I've already started to look at
fabrics," explained Elbaz. "Fashion is such a machine. It's always on the move, so a designer
has to be as well."
Elbaz, recalling his meeting with Wang said, "She's extremely nice. She's very excited about
her project with Lanvin. For her it's sort of a dream."
"Aside from the international stature, expertise and experience of Alber Elbaz, we were
seduced by his personality, determination and his knowledge of product," said Jacques Levy,
Lanvin's recently appointed president. Details of Elbaz's contract were not made available.
Asked what his plans are for Lanvin, the new creative director replied: "I've just arrived,
and I have begun studying yesterday, in order to understand today, so I can be right about
tomorrow. I think right at this moment, we all have more questions than answers."
Click on image to read the review and view the collection.
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