MILAN, Oct 2, 2002/ FWD/ --- "I was struck by the image of Charlotte Rampling dressed in nothing more than a pair of black trousers and suspenders in the movie ‘The Night Porter,’ said designer Lawrence Steele in his Milan showroom, referring to the inspiration for his Spring/Summer 2003 collection.

With that male-minded picture in tow, it´s safe to say that the Milan-based American designer, known for his overtly feminine and sexy designs, mixed things up a bit this season.

Steele called it "Smoking in the Bedroom" -- a pun which had literal references in the mix of tuxedo styles and lingerie looks that forged the basis of the collection.

Steele, who decided to forgo a traditional runway presentation this season (the vacillations involved with his brand new licensing and business partner were making things just too hectic) explained, "I wanted to stay true to my trademark femininity, but adding a male twist was exciting and new."

The designer opted to inject a strong dose of the Y chromosome into smoking-style suits and separates.

These were tempered, however, by the addition of ultra flirty pieces such as a delicately knitted plisse backless halter.

Tuxedo details, such as yoked cuts, ribbon striping and covered satin buttons were sprinkled on and off throughout the collection.

Some found their way to the lingerie-inspired evening looks such as oversized crepe de chine pants paired with a simple camisole with stitched detail.

Although these elements had merit, the real force of the collection - and the muscle for which Steele is known and appreciated by women around the globe - were the evening dresses.

There were great maxi length viscose knit ones that had an open front which could be tied or gathered in a multitude of sexy ways.

And a special half knit, half woven chiffon number that was overflowing with strips and rips and looked just right.

The only real complaint here is that there weren´t more to see.

Steele introduced a lot of great ideas, but many were not explored or developed to the depth which they merited.

The designer, busy working out the details of his new business situation with Italian sportswear company Aspesi, said that was the point.

"I wanted to keep the collection small because I needed to concentrate and stay focused. We have about 60 pieces in the main collection, which is about half of what I normally do. But this feels right for now."

Steele is pleased with the results and happy as can be with the production quality: "The quality is impeccable," he beams.

"These pieces are just as beautiful inside as they are out!"