Léonard Fall 2006: Glam 1970s Style
Paris Prêt-á-Porter Fall 2006
By Antony Johns
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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PARIS, Mar 3, 2006/ FW/ --- Under the artistic direction of Véronique Leroy, it seems that the house of Léonard will not be straying far from its signature style of colorful prints. It was with the development of new techniques in this area that the house made its name in the 1960’s and they now seem intent on sticking to what they know.
With glamour very much on the agenda, it was in the 1970’s however that the collection found its inspiration. The customary prints were almost psychedelic with their abstract swirls, paisley patterns and jumbo flowers but the colors, although bright, were never lurid enough to suggest the worst excesses of that decade.
With gold lamé knee boots, zebra prints and large gold disk necklaces revealed under chiffon shirts unbuttoned to the waist, Glam rock would have been a much more suitable soundtrack than the one chosen.
Plunging slit necklines brought to mind Bianca Jagger in her prime but with boat necks, square cuts and officier collars also mixed in, the trend here was more the emphasis of the waistline.
This was true of the wrap waist of the dresses but, even when square tunic cuts were employed the volume was reined in by a belt, as it was by tight leather waist sections on fluffed up fur coats.
A seductive decadence was also apparent in the slouchy elegance of a relaxed velvet trouser suit with its flared legs, open ruffle collared blouse and chunky chain.
In many ways the collection was just a painting by numbers interpretation of the Léonard DNA, but now over fifty years old, they must be doing something right.
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