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Neil Barrett: Barrett Blooms
By: J. J. Martin
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Jun 26, 2002/FWD/ --- Neil Barrett is finally coming into his own.
Having spent the last three years developing his own collection -- after accomplished stints
at both Prada and Gucci -- the menswear designer presented a precise, well-defined collection
which was the result, he explained, of “just being me.”
He invited guests into a charming back garden of a Milan villa, where soothing classical
music set a refined tone.
But as soon as the show started, the palazzo was filled with pumping, modern beats, lifting
the mood.
The collection was full of irregularities such as the pairing of sporty, sweatpant-inspired
cargoes with poplin pinstripe shirts and tailored jackets.
Obviously moving into more relaxed territory this season, Barrett explained, “I am designing
for myself and the man I would like to be.”
Despite the new angle, he still managed to maintain the sharp tailoring and unique
detailing for which he is famous.
The jackets, for example, were done in stiff khaki canvas or aged brown leathers and
displayed perfectly trimmed piping and leather shoulder detailing.
Paired with white or dirtied-up denim jeans -- both with lots of utility pockets and zips --
the look was a refined, yet sporty cool.
Barrett also added quirky, urban-athletic shoes (reminiscent of football cleats) which were
constructed in a variety of tobacco-colored leathers with lots of fun detailing, and worked
nicely with the fanny pack and canvas tote accessories.
Following in the footsteps of Jil Sander, Barrett has entered into a partnership with Puma
for the development and production of the line of shoes, which will hit stores January 2003.
He also chose to show a women’s collection alongside his men’s, although his “English school
boy come undone” theme was not executed nearly as well in femme form.
The mens’ looks, with their focused point of view and tight editing, clearly stole the show.
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