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New York Industrie: '70s Revival
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
Milan, Sep 29, 2001/ FWD/ --- Is there a new Bianca Jagger out there for the Spring/Summer 2002 collection
of New York Industrie shown Thursday?
The collection was billed as a revival of the "fabulous sophisticated '70s" and an ode to the disco era of
Studio 54 and Bianca's sensuality. However, as someone old enough to have actually danced in Studio 54 at
the height of its fame, I would say that the club was much more about devil-may-care decadence than
sophistication or finesse.
There was no end to the disco dolls on the catwalk of New York Industrie, which has been designed for the
past few seasons by Kostas Murkudis. Out onto the shiny black catwalk and underneath amusement ride lights
came micro-polka dot pants and suits, blood orange flamenco dresses, sexy little ribbed vests which ramped
up the cleavages of a few models.
There were a small group of great cutout one-piece swimsuits that will feature in loads of photo shoots.
Despite the soundtrack of churning funk, you could hear stylists scribbling these numbers into their books.
An asymmetrical bag lady dress with an image of Christ on it did look modern, but one felt far too much in a
time warp at this show.
Moreover, the sex was oddly cuddly, so an almost transparent shroud was worn under a homey cotton tank top.
Where had all the decadence gone? It was hard to imagine anyone getting down and dirty after donning these
clothes.
The program notes claimed the show was about "a feminine and sensual woman, a new Bianca Jagger." But, could
you really see her beautiful daughter Jade wearing this collection? I couldn't.
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