PARIS, Mar 8, 2003/ --- New Rochas designer Olivier Theyskens debuted for the house of Rochas at Theatre National de Chaillot last Friday in Paris, but unfortunatly, the collection fell short in comparison to the grandness of the venue.

And if Theyskens had been looking at the old designs of Marcel Rochas who founded the house, the young designer missed the mark.

Marcel Rochas believed in feminine looks and considered the 'shoulder' as the epitome of femininity. The Fall 2003 collection presented last Friday emphasized the waist with layers of ruffles, falling petals and sometimes, just layers of clothes.

The layering was so overdone, that even the svelte Stella Tennant looked dowdy in her triple-layered gown.

Obviously, Olivier Theyskens has talent. His work on his eponymous label has gotten rave reviews from fashion editors for the past several seasons.

This debut collection fell short both on expectations of Rochas clients and Olivier Thesykens fans.

True, it is hard to take over venerable houses because of their history. But the current House of Rochas is better known for their perfume, a result of Marcel Rochas's concentration on fragrances after World War II.

In terms of clothing, the House was a hit in Paris during the 1920s and 1930s, giving it a legendary status, but also allowing the current designer a lot of leeway on the direction of the House.

Let's hope that this collection is just a fluke, and next season, Theyskens will be back to his brilliant self.

Rochas by Olivier Theyskens

Rochas by Olivier Theyskens

Rochas by Olivier Theyskens

Rochas by Olivier Theyskens