Ruffo Research -- Somber but Successful
By J. J. Martin
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Oct 3, 2002/ FWD/ --- Haider Ackermann, the Colombian-born, Antwerp-based designer
with only a single collection under his belt, has been getting a lot of hype these days.
The whirlwind of press coverage and industry fascination with the fledgling Belgian designer
probably has a lot to do with his recent appointment to head designer at Ruffo Research.
The Italian luxury leather company, which rotates its designer roster every two seasons,
has set quite a precedent for unearthing astounding talent from the depths of obscurity.
Names like Veronique Branquinho, Raf Simons, A.F. Vandevorst, Sophia Kokosalaki, Antonio
Berardi, and Alexander Matthieu were all launched into the limelight after stints at Ruffo.
Proof of the company´s well-seasoned nose for sniffing out talent was in the pudding at
the first Ackermann-designed collection for Ruffo Research, presented in Milan.
Some might have been put off by the heavy mood. Like most Belgian fashion enterprises,
the event was an altogether somber one: Leaden clanking music filled a cold and gloomy
warehouse, where models dragged their feet across a black rubber tar mat littered with puddles.
But what kept everyone from reaching to grab their bottles of Xanax were some great clothes,
featuring creative proportions, and innovative leather work, a testament to the designer´s
imagination and Ruffo´s expertise.
Ackermann took the luxurious fabrication and smashed the heck out of it.
In its burnished incarnation, it enhanced blazers and updated hooded "sweat"shirts.
When perforated, it created a delightful smattering of small holes on a deconstructed
white pleat skirt.
Woven pieces, speckled with studs, made great belts and corsets.
And even jewelry got the hide treatment as models arms were decorated in leather bracelets
and arm cuffs.
The most memorable rendition, however, was leather in its pleated form.
Ackermann created a plisse effect so fine on this otherwise sturdy material that skirts
and open neck blouses seemed to literally fall into gentle cascades around the body.
A pant comprised of hundred of tiny pleats, cinched onto the leg with leather ties,
was also a fresh moment on the runway.
As the music crescendoed into a deafening roar, Ackermann seemed to be screaming his
arrival onto the Milan fashion scene.
Judging by his collection, it looks like he´s here to stay awhile.
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