Sharon Wauchob's Wondrous Construction
By Karl Treacy
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Mar 16, 2003/ FWD/ --- After multiple references to the ‘50s, ‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s have come bounding down the catwalks of the world’s fashion capitals in recent weeks, it was refreshing to see something new and modern pounding past that owed little to past influences.
For the hip downtown crowd, sensible boxy jackets and lady-like accessories probably won’t gel all that well with guitar riffs and electronica when fall comes around. But no need to fear. Northern Irish designer Sharon Wauchob is there to step in and fill the void.
Wauchob took motocross jackets as a basis and turned them into tailored gilets with large curved double lapels that came edged with micro-quilted black or white leather and were belted around the waist or hips. Some examples had more lapel action on one side, which gave an effect of cascading ruffles that was poetic but far from girly - high shoes and knee boots with gathered, rounded toes saw to that.
Leggings seen everywhere else cropped up here again but more as skin-tight pants in stretch leather or black jersey, the latter with intricate curving seams that allowed sheer windows to slot in and give a bad-ass look. Sheer panels around the buttocks also gave that look, but in the less flattering sense.
Minis were made up of strips of fabric that gave a pleated effect or, in a very desirable look that will have all your friends asking where you got your skirt from, were suspended from a waistband with brass rings. Both ideas cropped up again on more substantial outfits but those ribbon strips worked best when they slipped over brief debardeur dresses, especially when those dresses came in the colors of a smoky rainbow.
Best of all were utterly astounding jackets in a patchwork of dull blue striped fabrics or in orange leather that had seams going here, there and everywhere and cut out backs. With breathtaking construction and a sharp and sexy glamour, they were so lust-worthy, it will be amazing if they even hit the shop floor before being snapped up.
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