Stephen Fairchild -- A Work in Progress
By J. J. Martin
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Oct 3, 2002/ FWD/ --- Stephen Fairchild clearly laid out his formula for success
when he launched his eponymous clothing label three short seasons ago: "I want to design
affordable, great fashion that is up to the minute on trends, yet truly accessible to people,"
he declared last year.
The question, of course, is can he deliver?
Like with most new designers, the answer -- based on the Spring Summer ´03 collection he
presented last night in Milan -- is, "he´s getting there."
What worked best in the presentation, which was staged in the designer´s new showroom
in the posh Via Montenapoleone, were Fairchild´s clean takes on new released items- such as
his sexy high waisted, V-fronted drainpipe pants.
In either cotton white poplin, or iridescent cream, the pants were hot and right on target.
But with only 29 looks in total, it was difficult for Fairchild to both stay totally focused
on key pieces and also to create a real point of view.
The designer lost a bit of ground on his brief exploration of the Middle East -- his low
draping, harem style pants, for example, were way too out-there for his practical fashionista.
The highlight on the runway, however, and the area which definitely merited further
exploration, was Fairchild´s Victorian military moment.
The American-born designer sent out a few fantastic pieces, most notably a great houdar-style
jacket, which had long backsides, snaps in all the right places and brilliant, curvy frogging
detail along the chest.
It was fresh, sophisticated, and definitely needed more stage time.
Fairchild is bursting with ideas and energy, and is always open to trying new things.
Take for example his decision to incorporate the hat designs of London milliner Cozmo Jenks
into this most recent collection.
The concept was clever in its inception, not only because both designers are up and coming,
but also because a crowd always likes to see collaborations between artists which give depth
and added dimensions to a presentation.
Jenks´ highly sophisticated -- and often outrageously flamboyant -- designs were works of
art on their own.
It would have been nice to see a more coherent connection, however, between Fairchild´s
tempered sporty looks and his milliner´s wacky extravagance.
The opening look, for example, featuring a white pinstripe pant and casual tulle tank,
was a bit out of place with the scarlet red feather, mohican-style headdress brimming with
long beaded strands.
But with Fairchild´s continued enthusiasm and his knack for dreaming up inventive ways
to woo a upper/mid-market consumer, there will surely be more surprises in the future.
Earlier this week, during the Milan fashion week party circuit, Fairchild spoke of his
challenge for both brand and product development: "We´re getting there. I may not be there
just yet, but we´re getting there."
Stay tuned.
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