NEW YORK, Feb 23, 2003/ FWD/ --- As the fashion pack trekked from Ben Cho's out-of-the-way art gallery presentation Thursday night - a show filled with Manhattan's cool, downtown art clique - to the Four Seasons Restaurant to see Zac Posen's fall 2003 presentation, one thing was made abundantly clear: Though Posen may be barely legal, he's far surpassed his babyfaced colleagues in stature.

It was evident in the crowd, which included every big magazine editor and retailer.

It was evident in the models - a roster of fashion's most major mannequins.

It was clear from their hair - punkish, extended couture 'dos, courtesy of Paris' Odile Gilbert.

And it was clear from the clothing: a 48-look line-up of impeccably crafted eveningwear.

It's been said before, Posen is a first-rate tailor with a head full of inventive ideas.

But so are many others in his age group.

What sets him apart is that now -- in his fourth season -- he's firmly established his high-end brand.

His clothing is not cool, it's not edgy, in fact it's anything but youth-oriented.

It's intended for elegant women with fine tastes and tremendous wealth.

Women, as Posen put it at his after-party, "who are world travelers and art collectors - or, at least, want to be."

In the past year, Posen has dined with Donatella in Milan, partied with Tom Ford in Paris, and accepted and declined princely invitations to travel to Kuwait.

The kid's been all over, and his fall collection reflected just that.

Entitled "Leagues & Fathoms," it was an exploration of jet-set dressing.

Rich furs, courtesy of American Legend, were slung over atlas-printed halter gowns; one standout top literally dripped with Swarovski crystals.

Carmen Kass did her usual pony strut in a brown leather "Evil Knievel" jumpsuit lined in mink and Rie Rasmussen walked in chocolate brown pintucked dress with sliced "Piano" key trimmings that actress Connie Nielsen proclaimed "absolutely perfect."

Comprising the majority of the collection, however, were the classic Posen creations: his bias-cut, mermaid-hemmed, art deco dresses, which garnered him the attention of the fashion world two years ago.

If there is one criticism, it lies there: Posen could benefit from moving on beyond the somewhat-costumey movie premiere look.

He's proven his talent and creative eye, now it's time to explore new terrain.

Because -- let's face it -- even world-traveling art collectors take some down time now and then.