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Bottega Veneta's Got London in the Bag
By: Melanie Rickey
Photos below: Tomas Maier, Creative Director of Bottega Veneta; Jefferson Hack, Dazed & Confused editorial director
Photos courtesy of Bottega Veneta

Tomas Maier LONDON, Jul 25, 2002/ --- It was a low-key yet luxurious affair at the opening of London’s first Bottega Veneta store on Sloane Street last night.

Katie Grand popped in, as did Dazed & Confused editorial director Jefferson Hack, Kim Hersov and Lady Caroline Stanbury.

"You could buy something like this in Shepherd’s Bush market," mused London man about town Simon Mills, while feeling up a squashy gold leather sack with the texture of a cracked ancient Moorish mosaic.

Actually, no.

No street market vendor could come close to the craftsmanship and intelligence employed in the making and designing of shoes, bags, clothes and accessories (including a woven leather covered steering wheel) from the new Bottega Veneta collection.

Tomas Maier
Simon Mills (L) and Tomas Maier(R)

In the thirteen months that former Hermes designer and swimwear maestro Tomas Maier has been creative director of the Gucci-owned company, it has been transformed from a status driven fashion line into a truly luxurious brand.

"It’s not about announcing yourself with a bag," says German-born Maier, 45, who says he has "blocked" from his mind the label’s brief but public foray into high fashion.

"I want to turn Bottega Veneta into the number one Italian luxury leather goods house."

So far, so good.

The bags are beautiful, simple, and supple.

The BV signature under Maier is that everything must be luxuriously soft.

Jefferson Hack Bags can be flat packed into suitcases, some slippers and shoes can rolled up, wallets are so supple they barely show when tucked into a back pocket.

The fall collection for both men and women is notable for its functionality and subtlety.

Colors are shades of brown, tan, russet and red. There is no overt branding, hardware is kept to a minimum, and every aspect of their design is useful, and chic.

Bottega Veneta products are not cheap – its £8080 for the beautiful ‘Vis-à-vis’ red crocodile bag, and £1500 for a standard circular tote in the brands signature basket weave ‘intrecciato’– but that’s the point.

Everything is handmade by their Veneto-based artisans using Chervo deerskin, and crocodile.

"I apply quality, passion and patience. It is not quick to make something, and it should not be so quick for someone to understand it," says Maier.

"I want people to see the product and know it is right for them. I don’t think in demographics. So passe! I want people to personalize their BV products, we can put the customer’s initials onto their bag. Why put a brand name when your own initials are enough?"

The London store is the second of the new concrete and gleaming glass low-lit stores co-designed by architect William Sofield with Tomas Maier.

Tomas Maier
Tomas Maier(L) and William Sofield(R)

The first, which opened in Paris on July 8, will be joined by a third in Milan this September.

Gucci Group purchased Bottega Veneta in January 2001.

There are 40 Bottega Veneta stores worldwide.

 

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