Milan, Oct 1, 2002/ FWD/ --- One of the more interesting projects to build a fashion label from an existing brand is Samsonite Black Label, the clothing extension of the well-known and highly resistant luggage business.

To his credit, designer Gigi Vezzola has pumped plenty of energy into the Black Label concept, as was proven by the front-row presence of a number of influential critics and, perhaps more relevantly, heavy-hitter buyers from Bergdorf Goodman, Saks and Bloomingdale's.

Vezzola has had the good sense not to overplay his hand with too fashion-forward a look, and the spring summer 2003 collection in the Milan Fiera today began strongly with loose, easy unstructured sportswear of the kind lots of women could wear.

Crisp high-collared bomber jackets in coated cotton and cargo pants with rucksack pockets followed some excellent soft leather corsets and slick tank tops.

Gigi also got it right with floaty cotton capes and a series of feminine tailcoats in seersucker.

Vezzola's also a respectable colorist; his mix of ceramic tile blue dress with semi-hidden gold T-shirt or pale ivory with mat ecru were spot on.

At the finale however, Vezzola got a little lost.

Suddenly, a collection billed as street couture and targeted very much for the hip urban market suddenly leapt a couple of time zones to Las Vegas with a blast of gold house dresses ideal for an off-duty croupier and not a cool downtown it girl.

That said, Gigi really gets the idea that sexy and sleek can also be comfortable, a message too many of his fellow designers seem to have forgotten.

Samsonite Black Label Samsonite Black Label

Samsonite Black Label Samsonite Black Label