MILAN, Sep 28, 2006/ FW/ --- Gucci had two things to celebrate when it unveiled its Spring 2007 collection – it’s 85th anniversary and a 39.8% increase in operating income as reported by PPR last Sep 7.

So, in a way, it was not surprising that Frida Gianni decided to go back to the 1960s, the decade when Gucci was considered a status symbol of the times. It was about 60 years since it was founded and in a manner of speaking, on its first incarnation, until Tom Ford took over and made it the ‘it’ label of the 1990s and spearheaded its second reincarnation.

Trapeze skirts and micro minis, empire mini dresses adorned with floral appliqués, paisley prints and graphical designs bordering on Native American totem pole markings, slim fitting jackets with orange piping and cape shoulders for coats and rocks, it was the turbulent 1960s with all its influences combined in one collection.

Wide belts featuring three tiny buckles, clogs with stacked heels inspired by Roman sandals, or just wide belts with lots of chrome, then some boho prints that is reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s peasant look, the collection kept the 1960s theme intact, but was not directional.

At this point, it is hard not to compare the Gucci collection from the Moschino collection that was unveiled the day before. Both houses were inspired by the 1960s.

But, whereas Moschino took a fun and almost philosophical look at the icons of the 1960s and maintained a very coherent and directional collection, the one that Frida Giannini showed for Gucci was ‘spaced out’ if we use a 1960s vernacular.

It is not to say that Gucci’s collection was not beautiful. Every item is wearable and Gucci fans will go for it the moment it reaches store shelves. But, the show could have used some editing to make it coherent.

And this is the one, which is surprising because given Gucci’s stature in the fashion world, this little faux pas is something that an amateur will make.

One gets a feeling that the collection was created just to sell and the artistic values that had always been associated with the maison by the current crop of fashionistas is missing.

Taken individually, the clothes are great, very wearable and highly covetable. But, as a collection, and presented as a set, the thread that binds was missing, except that everything came from the 1960s.

Gucci

Gucci

Gucci

Gucci