NEW YORK, Feb 4, 2006/ FW/ --- With pennants in the middle of the runway, half of them bearing the Alexandre Herchcovitch logo, while the other half show a skull, there was a sinister undertone even before the show started.

When the first model came out wearing a black puff sleeve dress cinched at the waist with an obi-size belt, the collar high and the hemline lined with fur, the medieval maiden came to mind.

Slim silhouettes dominated, from the leg-hugging pencil-thin pants to the belted loose fitting jackets and bodice-hugging dresses.

There was a military overtone, as pea coats were cropped short and Cracker Jack pants became tapered. Even the outer coats were reminiscent of the naval uniform.

Yet, the medieval knights were there too, their armor became the shape of that defined the dress, their visor became a headdress, but instead of woven chain mail, it became tiny green and black flowers.

The skull seen on the pennants was incorporated in belt buckles, a sign of death in most cultures, the underworld overtones expanded. Yet, there is a subtler hint – all the models wore headbands that went around their head wrapped all the way to the neck.

In Egyptian culture, it’s the beginning of the wrapping the mummy and in European culture - only the head is wrapped in bandages, part of the preparation for the departed as they begin their journey to Hades.

It’s eerily beautiful in its simplicity and subtlety. And after last season’s ‘Meet me everywhere, meet me anytime,’ Fall 2006’s medieval beauties puts Alexandre Herchcovitch back on track as one of the exciting designers coming out of Brazil.

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch