asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
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One to Watch: Andrew Paluba
Written by Karin Nelson
Photos courtesy of Andrew Paluba-FWD
Apr 12, 2002 /FWD/ --- "We're not reinventing the wheel," explains fashion designer Andrew
Paluba of his three-season-old, classics-driven "asp by Andrew Paluba" line.
"We're just trying to make it as special and beautiful as it can be."
It's not the most compelling pitch, especially as fashion is all about reworking what
already works, but the 23-year-old New York-based designer is onto something. With all the
kitschy Empire State cocktail dresses, revamped vintage, and intricately corseted couture
pieces being produced by today's design wunderkinds, the focus of American fashion is being
shifted away from “contemporary sportswear,” a description which has slowly become dated.
It's a predicament that prompts the question: When the time comes, who will take over for
the Ralph Laurens and Carolina Herreras of the design world, when even Bill Blass' protégé,
Lars Nilsson, is taking a decidedly Nordic turn?
Enter asp, a high-minded, easy-going line directed towards everyone from that "sophisticated
19-year-old to the cool 40-year-old."
Fortunate enough to be given the funds to open up shop a year ago on Mulberry Street, Paluba
and his business partner, Melissa Liebling-Goldberg, have learned first-hand from their
so-called "daily trunk shows" what customers like Marisa Tomei and Rashida Jones want.
"They want new takes on the classics," claims Paluba, who, not surprisingly, learned the
trade and "concept of integrity" from working under sportswear legend Geoffrey Beene.
The Manhattan native also earned a degree in 'downtown cool' with stints at Daryl K.
and Marc Jacobs.
For fall, Paluba is focusing on lush, "feel good" fabrics and tailored looks. "It's an
Ali MacGraw collection," the designer explains. "Not a Carmen Electra one." Wool
herringbone tweed trousers are wide-legged ("Movement elevates clothing."); moleskin jackets
are short, fitted and emphasized by wide lapels and oversized buttons; feminine A-line skirts
seductively saddle the waist before flaring; and corseted blouses and dresses give definition
to the ribcage and breasts, which, in Paluba's opinion, are not only the sexiest parts of a
woman but also areas overlooked by today's low-slung, hip obsession. It's a smart, chic
collection -- too basic to be trendy, but too attention-grabbing to be labeled basic.
"If we define it as basic, we throw it out," claims Liebling-Goldberg.
And though come September the duo will be shutting their Little Italy boutique
("We're not retailers," Paluba has decided), they will be presenting a runway show for
the first time, tentatively at the Soho Grand hotel.
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asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
asp by Andrew Paluba
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