Sep 6, 2002/ FWD/ --- Sometimes one needs to let things go in order to move forward; such is the case with 24-year-old designer Andrew Paluba.

Since showing his fall 2002 collection, the New York-based designer has discarded his downtown boutique, as well as the 'asp' initials from his label's name, and presented before an intimate group of fashion editors on Wednesday a sophisticated, focused spring/summer 2003 collection.

"I saw a series of Robert Doiseau photos of girls after World War II, in the streets, and in parades, and they looked so free and innocent, and fresh," tells Paluba, a sweet-faced New York native with a mouthful of braces, of his inspiration.

And, after a line-up of serious, sober-colored and strict-lined clothing across the fashion board for fall, Paluba's feminine, flirty looks feel -- like the Doiseau photos -- just right.

Taking touches of the 1950s silhouette with dropped waists, fuller skirts, pegged pant legs and delicately-trimmed key-hole blouses and shell-tops, Paluba's collection would be ever-so-precious, were such looks not paired with modern, cool pieces like some Lolita-ish tailored hotpants, slim, ultra-chic shorts, hip-saddling trousers with his trademark lacerated front-seam, and paper-thin Italian cotton V-neck tops, deconstructed a bit for a peek of skin.

And while there are darling liberty prints and charming pieces in pink, pale blue and cream, there are also bold, exotic florals from British print house Ascher, as well as broad strokes of olive green - Paluba's favorite - and cool lavenders.

Having worked under Marc Jacobs and Geoffrey Beene, Paluba picks up on the aesthetic of both designers.

Jacobs' tendency towards kitsch and whimsy reveals itself in Paluba's use of larger, meticulously chosen wooden buttons as well as inventive, hand-crafted flowers that adorn the waists of slacks and the straps on flirty dresses.

And as for Beene, the legendary designer's clean cuts and fluidity of fabric are echoed in the more sophisticated looks of Paluba's collection: his side-lacerated tuxedo pants and silk, breakaway-sleeve blouses.

But that is not to say Paluba, now in his fifth season of design, hasn't carved out a style of his own with his pulled-together, well-finished classics.

"As business-casual works its way back to Friday, where it belongs, my girls need clothing that address a new formality and sophistication," tells Paluba of his place in the world of sportswear.

"I am always striving for modernity."