NEW YORK, Feb 15, 2002/ FWD/ --- Anne Klein's first full-scale runway show in five years was nothing revolutionary, but it certainly went off without a hitch.

Good thing too, because behind the scenes the sailing is not so smooth. The house's parent company Kasper filed for Chapter 11 just last week.

But the look of the collection shown this afternoon at the Gallery in Bryant Park was anything but destitute, featuring rich leathers, shearlings and suedes.

An over-the-top Kimora Lee Simmons, who swept in minutes before the lights dimmed with her face buried in the enormous hood of a lush ankle-length fur, added to the affluent ambiance.

The statuesque designer/mogul wife turned bobbed coifs and set conservatively attired attendees buzzing.

When the show finally kicked off, full knee-length skirts - poodle skirts sans poodle, if you will - were first to swing down the runway.

Their horizontal stripes were paired with black sweaters or leather coats.

Some ensembles were cinched with leather obi belts, similar to those in designer Charles Nolan's spring collection.

One departure from Nolan's spring line though was the dearth of lion's heads.

This season, the company's logo - which it pledged to reclaim when Nolan came on board just a year ago - only appeared on a couple of wide belts.

Those who feared that the roaring spring collection would lead to lion overkill this fall were certainly relieved.

Nolan played with texture in leather skirts, a suede sleeveless dress and chunky cable-knit sweaters and mixed things up with eveningwear, pairing a white plunging-back satin sheath with a heavy knit scarf and juxtaposing the filminess of a flowing satin skirt with the heft of a sweater.

Women who turn to Anne Klein for their classic workplace looks won't be disappointed by this collection's classic standbys.

As Anna Wintour scrutinized (at least we think that's what she's doing behind those dark glasses) and Glenda Bailey scribbled, pieces like a 3/4-length camel coat, a green blazer, and a tweed knee-length skirt paraded past.

We don't know about those editresses, but our faves were the wide-leg, thick-cuffed pants in grey or pinstripes.

A slimmer cut, low-rise tweedy pair also stood out, paired with a cropped leather jacket to show a little skin.

In a collection that the program notes described as inspired by "the strength of character that recently turned daily routine into cherished moments - and heroic events into daily routine," a couple of short coats were fastened with the metal clasps of a fireman's jacket.

Although most of Nolan's well-cut looks will likely help Anne Klein's bottom line, we don't anticipate the cargo-style cropped pants to fly off the racks. And it's anyone's guess as to who will be flattered by a sack-style leather dress.

On the whole though, burnt oranges and browns, clean whites, and leathers in shades of black and butterscotch should appeal for fall and reinforce Kasper's impending name change, to the Anne Klein Group.