PARIS, Mar 5, 2006/ FW/ --- If you were not inside the venue of the Barbara Bui catwalk preview, and just listening outside in the corridor, the applause at the end of the show during the model’s parade is proof enough that it was a well-received collection.

An appreciative audience continued to clap though the last model had exited the runway, waiting for Barbara Bui to take her bow. And when she came out, the applause became more frenzied with wolf whistles in between, a sure sign that the Paris-based designer had hit the mark once again.

In the very competitive fashion business, it is very hard for an independent fashion house to survive, yet season after season, Barbara Bui is living proof that it can be done as she continues to gain popularity and attract more fans with her romantic urban looks with a rock & roll attitude.

Perhaps, Barbara Bui is a closet poet, her press notes a ‘six line poem’ in French; the last line loosely translated in English says ‘The emotion of rock & roll pushes its energy in this fragility.’

Though the line might sound ambiguous, it actually defined this very cosmopolitan collection that is very urban but with an ethereal aesthetic that make it dreamy with a punch.

The romantic piano music as opening background soundtrack in a smoky curved street in a city sets the pensive atmosphere, the opening look – a burgundy satin suit with pencil thin trousers and slim cut suit jacket worn over a black chiffon blouse.

Mannish with a fragility hidden beneath, she is sexily innocent with an undefined sensuality due to her masculine clothing. And that was what Barbara Bui’s message in this collection – modernity with a touch of romance without resorting to ruffles and lace.

Crumpled minis that were sometimes rolled at the hemline to create an oval shape, cylindrical dresses with one puff sleeve, and off-the-shoulder sweaters with gradient colors and A-line coats in its multiple variants were the staples of this collection.

More tailored than fluid, every piece was designed for ease of dressing, when looking good is important but time is very limited when dressing up.

Decoration and ornamentation were minimal, but for the things that Barbara Bui used, they were eye-catching and a few of them were actually groundbreaking.

Like the ‘puff sleeve’ added on the crook of the elbow. With lattice inverted pleats, the ‘puff’ was created, the ‘veined’ pleats actually looking like accordion pleats from afar.

This was also seen in the beige empire dress, where the lattice stitching defined the bustline. Extending on the skirt as straight stitching, they turned into micro gores and godets, hence adding fluidity while keeping its architectural structure.

Introducing her Fall 2006 accessories line, Barbara Bui also sent totes, shoulder bags and purses on the runway. Wedge heeled-boots with straps buckled in showed an interesting military influence, though it is more of an aura, rather than visual.

Stiletto granny boots and stacked heels were also highlighted and proposed to be worn with both pants and dresses.

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui