PARIS, Oct 9, 2004/ FW/ --- Six months ago during last season’s Fall/Winter 2004-2005 collections, I wrote a review on Barbara Bui’s collection appropriately titled, “Barbara Bui Is No Joke In Paris”. This time, the diva designer has returned with a collection far less edgy than the last but which is every bit as good.

With Native American inspirations coming out of the woodworks, Ms. Bui opened the show with an exquisite off-white trench coach in heavy lace. Sounds interesting? Well it is. But that’s only the beginning because her (a) sickening skirt and (b) shorts repeated in the same fabric and colour are just as fabulous. The shorts have leather trims and were worn with white shirt in a cotton gauze fabric.

Then came dresses in a wide and in a wide variety too. Bui’s Chelsea dress in putty and white was really the first in the array of remarkable dresses. It was later followed by multi-layered black daisy dress. I rather prefer the next dress in black. Called Peony, this dress is in a heavy black lace and has cotton petals in black on it.

An off-white embroidered Native American cardigan gives us all a reason to make cardigans popular again. I don’t believe that I’ve ever seen one done so well before. It’s rivalled only – if not surpassed – by another cardigan in off-white lace and crystals.

I have to speak about the Penelope blouson. In chalk python’s skin, it is sheer dynamite. It, along with the embroidered Cheyenne top in lilac suede, attest to the research on Native American cultures that Ms. Bui dedicated to this collection.

Bui did a dramatic turn with her putty silk satin slip dress with lace. It looks like it makes love to the skin. Her white gauze skirt with waistband in natural suede makes getting dressed a pleasure thanks in great part to its soft and flowing nature.

And just to drive home the point that she full well intends to establish her own brand of dominance over dresses this season, Ms. Bui whipped up an orgasmic printed red petal dress in muslin. The lilac and green Escargot dress is on time too. It is in printed Chelsea muslin and has flounced sleeves. However, it is the printed “spin” dress, also in lilac and green muslin is the pick of the litter. It is just the right blend of movement, delicacy and style.

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui